A radon mitigation system has exactly one moving part — the fan — and fans don’t last forever. Most run about ten years before they quit, and when they quit, they quit quietly: no alarm, no warning light, just a manometer that levels out while radon goes back to doing what radon does under a karst foundation.
We repair and replace radon mitigation systems across Bowling Green and Warren County — including systems we didn’t install. A fan swap costs a fraction of a new system, and every repair ends the same way our installations do: with a retest that proves your numbers are back under control.
The manometer has flatlined. That U-shaped tube on your pipe is the system’s heartbeat. Uneven fluid levels mean suction; level fluid means the fan has stopped or the pipe has lost pressure. It’s a five-second check — and the single most ignored gauge in any house that has one.
The fan sounds different. A healthy inline fan hums quietly. Grinding, rattling, surging, or a new loudness means bearings on their way out. Fans rarely fix themselves; they fail forward.
The fan is silent. Put a hand on the fan housing (attic, garage, or exterior wall). No vibration means no fan. Check the circuit first — radon fans are usually on their own breaker or switch — then call.
Your retest came back high. Systems get verified when installed, but fans age, houses settle, and karst shifts. A rising number on a routine retest is the system telling you it needs attention even if everything sounds normal.
Ice, water, or condensation problems at the pipe. Gurgling sounds or visible condensation issues can mean a slope or routing problem letting water pool where it shouldn’t — fixable, and worth fixing before winter.
Fan replacement. The standard repair. We match a properly sized replacement fan to your system and foundation — not just whatever’s on the truck — swap it, reseal, and confirm the manometer shows working suction before we leave.
System diagnosis and repair. Flatlined manometer with a running fan, suspected pipe leaks, lost suction, discharge problems, or a system that never seemed to get the numbers down: we diagnose what’s actually wrong before quoting what it costs to fix.
Orphaned systems. Installer out of business, out of state, or out of patience? We service existing systems regardless of who built them. Bring us the house; we don’t need the paperwork.
Verification retest. Every repair ends with a radon test in writing. A running fan is not the goal — a verified number below 4.0 pCi/L is. If you’re not sure what shape your system is in, our radon testing service answers that question first.
A straightforward fan replacement is far cheaper than a new system — typically a few hundred dollars installed, depending on fan size and mounting location, versus the four figures a full radon mitigation system installation runs. Diagnosis is quoted honestly: if the fix is a fan, we say fan; if the system was designed wrong from the start and a fan won’t save it, we say that too, in writing, with the itemized options.
How long do radon fans last?
Most run 10 years or more; some quit earlier, a few soldier on past 15. If your system is a decade old and you don’t know the fan’s age, check the manometer weekly and budget for a swap.
Can I replace the fan myself?
Mechanically inclined homeowners sometimes do. The catches: fans must be matched to the system’s airflow and suction requirements, the housing has to be resealed correctly, and without a post-repair test you’re guessing about the only number that matters. Most people who price it out have us do it — the retest comes included.
My fan runs but the manometer reads zero. What’s wrong?
Usually a blocked or disconnected pipe, a failed seal, or a fan that spins without moving air. That’s a diagnosis call, not a fan-swap call — and it’s exactly the failure mode that goes unnoticed for years.
Does homeowner’s insurance cover radon fan replacement?
Generally no — fans are treated as maintenance, like a water heater. The good news is the cost is closer to a plumbing service call than a roof claim.
How often should a working system be retested?
Every two years, and after any major foundation, HVAC, or renovation work. The manometer confirms the fan is pulling; only a test confirms the radon is staying down.
The fan is the only part that wears out — and the manometer tells you when. If yours has leveled off, the fix is a phone call, not a new system.
Bowling Green Radon — Radon testing & mitigation for Bowling Green and Warren County, KY
Serving Bowling Green, Alvaton, Plano, Richardsville, Smiths Grove, Oakland, Rockfield, Woodburn, and Drake.
📞 (859) 327-0684
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Radon information on this site is general guidance, not a substitute for professional testing of your specific home.